On Christmas day 1870 Paris had been under siege by the Prussian army for 99
days. Food shortages led Parisians to expand their usual larder of ingredients
and even the inhabitants of Paris zoo were not spared. A Christmas menu from a
Paris restaurant included exotic dishes such as Elephant consommé, Bear chops
in a pepper sauce and Camel roasted English style. Amongst the dishes served
that day by chef Alexandre Étienne Choron was a Kangaroo stew. This was not the
first time kangaroo had been served far from Australian shores. In 1862 the
Acclimatisation Society of Great Britain held a
banquet in London which featured a dish called Kangaroo Steamer.
Kangaroo Steamer had long been a feature of the
Australian colonial culinary landscape. In his account of his rambles through the
colonies in the late 1840s, the aristocratic military officer Godfrey Mundy
devoted considerable space, and a gourmet's eye, to food. Mundy described,
amongst other things, a high society dinner party, bush recipes, the dearth of
good cooks and the over-abundance of meat. He showed a keen appreciation for
kangaroo meat and provided his readers with a glowing report on the various
ways of preparing this marsupial, including one for skewered kangaroo ‘kabaubs’
(sic) and for the slow cooked kangaroo 'steamer'. He described the steamer as
'very popular with those who have time and patience ' and pronounced the dish
to be very tasty.